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 Two new questions, Calipers and die set
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Satanta
Advanced Member


USA
176 Posts

Posted - 12/24/2017 :  2:46:08 PM  Show Profile Send Satanta a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Yep, it's me again. Doing my Xmas ordering and have question on the Lee die set 90626. One will say M1 carbine then another says pistol.
Are they two of the same?
Also calipers. I have heard both used. Dial and digital. Which is the better choice overall from your point of view? Thanks again.
Can hardly wait to get involved.

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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
346 Posts

Posted - 12/24/2017 :  4:13:10 PM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Dies....30-carbine is 30-carbine. Some pistols have been chambered in 30-carbine, but if the dies are for 30-carbine (and Lee 90626 is) that's all that counts. If you come across a 4-die set that includes the factory crimp die, spend another couple of $$ and get that one with the FCD. It's no use in confusing the issue at the moment and the 3-die set works, but if you can get the FCD for just a few $$ more....it may be useful to you on down the road.

I prefer digital calipers, but it's only a preference for my 70-year old eyes.
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Satanta
Advanced Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - 12/24/2017 :  5:39:08 PM  Show Profile Send Satanta a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks again, and whew! I had already pushed the order button.
I still grin as I have gathered over time that you were no boy. But your confession of 70 years old confirmed.
When I first entered this site, I had you figured as a young pup. But of course you still are. I'm 65.
Point is if any. I was excited to think that we had someone in their 30's that carried the love for the M1.
Sad to say it is a fading breed, and with hope we can still muster our grandkids to continue it.
I agree with digital also. You just have to put your trust in technology. I'm old school and do have a hard time with that at times. Thanks again.
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jimb16
Moderator



USA
3118 Posts

Posted - 12/24/2017 :  6:37:08 PM  Show Profile Send jimb16 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
My preference is a dial caliber. You don't need to worry about the battery ever dying! And I suggest a good micrometer as well. I agree that just about any carbine ides will do. But I wouldn't waste money on a set of carbide dies. Since the carbine is a tapered case and not a straight wall, you will still need to lube the cases, just not every single one. Ordinary dies work just fine. Glad to have you here youngster!

OGCA Lifer,NRA Life member, son of a 325th GIR Glider Rider
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Satanta
Advanced Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - 12/25/2017 :  03:49:42 AM  Show Profile Send Satanta a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Looking to order primers. Did some research and I like what I see with CCI #41. They are supposedly designed for military with no retention spring on the firing pin in mind. Anything to help reduce the slam fire effect is good in my eyes, even though that has never happened to me.
I will need to order online due to my little small town lack of gun shops. Cabella's carries them but out of stock. 4-5 weeks delivery.
Input on other sources to purchase from, and of course would like to hear what everyone else uses.
Woke up at midnight and could not sleep. So from the youngster in AZ. Merry Christmas to all.
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daboone
Junior Member



USA
73 Posts

Posted - 12/25/2017 :  05:39:07 AM  Show Profile Send daboone a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The Lee M1 Carbine sizing die is the only one made with 2 sizing rings to accommodate it's tapered case. I've done side by side sizing die comparisons with RCBS steel, RCBS carbide, Hornady and Herters. The Lee produced perfect SAAMI specs.

I've loaded for the M1 Carbine for 50 years and never used anything but regular SRP and never had a problem. Just make sure they are seated properly.

Another vote for dial calipers. For me it's easier to visualize the changes in the numbers when adjusting seating depths.

Edited by - daboone on 12/26/2017 07:12:08 AM
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Tuna
Moderator



3262 Posts

Posted - 12/25/2017 :  12:17:23 PM  Show Profile Send Tuna a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I have both types of calipers. The digitals are nice but they go though batteries like Sherman through Georgia. So as long as I have my glasses on the dial caliper works 100% and never needs new batteries. I might need new batteries but the caliper doesn't.

I have also been loading 30 carbine for many decades and have never used anything but standard small rifle primers and have never had a problem of any kind.

Edited by - Tuna on 12/25/2017 12:19:16 PM
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jimb16
Moderator



USA
3118 Posts

Posted - 12/25/2017 :  8:32:59 PM  Show Profile Send jimb16 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Same here on the primers. But I'll tell you something that the others haven't mentioned. When a carbine cycles, the firing pin comes forward and hits the primer. Since the firing pin is free floating it will mark the primer. Don't worry about it. It doesn't hit hard enough to set off the primer. That worries a lot of the new carbine shooters, but it isn't a problem. Nobody has ever had a primer fire for that reason. IF it happens, then there is another problem like a stuck firing pin or a hammer/sear slipping. In a normally functioning carbine the hit is too light to be of concern.

OGCA Lifer,NRA Life member, son of a 325th GIR Glider Rider
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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
346 Posts

Posted - 12/26/2017 :  09:30:40 AM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I'll come down on either side of the caliper style and yes...the digital does eat batteries like Tuna mentioned. It's just easier for me to see the numbers than it is to read the dial...LOL. I favor standard small rifle primers and stay away from CCI. It's a habit I picked-up tuning revolver triggers, preferring the softer primers. The carbine delivers enough of a "whack" to set off the hard primers, but I've never had any problems with the Winchester or Remington...even Wolf. We have been thru times when primers were hard to get and I tend to pick-up what's available. I've never had any not work.

I went thru an episode of a carbine piercing primers once and it was the firing-pin and not a soft primer causing the issue. I have also used small pistol primers when that was all I had at the time. They do work and the chronograph never noticed much of a difference.

I also support the notion that carbide dies are not necessary as the cases need to be lubed prior to sizing. Most modern dies are carbide anyway, but I would not let that be an issue. I have a handy recipe for sizing lubricant that's cheap and you'll have enough to last a life time with one purchase. We can talk about that later.
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Satanta
Advanced Member



USA
176 Posts

Posted - 12/26/2017 :  10:26:04 AM  Show Profile Send Satanta a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Caliper problem solved, I ordered and will have both now, heha. Always nice to compare readings.
Just regular SRP it is. Winchester sounds good to me. Upon more reading, all I really see is make sure the pocket is clean, and proper seating is a must. Which I assume all the way in or flush is the key? Is there such a thing of going to far in with the 30 carbine?
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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
346 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2017 :  06:58:19 AM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
You'll pick all this up as-you-go and I would not try and remember it all now. One needs not be seriously anal concerning primer pocket cleaning. There is another little inexpensive pocket-tool to dress the pockets and I do hit mine if they look dirty or corroded. The thing is...it's like trimming brass....too much is too much and it only reduces the life of the brass. Every time you aggressively ream a pocket, you increase the risk of over-sizing the hole rendering the case useless. You'll get the knack of how to stop primer seating and it will become a "mostly-by-sight-and-feel" thing. Not deep enough and the primed case may become stuck in the shell-holder, which will give a clear indication it needs to go deeper. Too deep and it may affect primer-strikes, but most primers can't be set too deep unless you really try hard. Flush with the case or slightly below works.

Look at it this way....are you reloading for a bullet reloading show for which you want the product to look as close to pristine as possible, or are you loading for practical use? Practical reloads may look a little dirty and not be perfect, but will still go bang just like ones out of the box. I have some strait-wall pistol brass that I am sure has been reloaded 15-20 times. They are smutty, scratched and dented and I only throw it away when I find splits or some other physical defect.
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daboone
Junior Member



USA
73 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2017 :  08:07:08 AM  Show Profile Send daboone a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The ideal seating depth is just below flush. As you gain experience in loading you'll learn the "feel" to accomplish this. You don't want to crush the primer by seating to deep. That for me has never been a problem but is worth mentioning. Seating to deep can damage the internal parts which can cause misfires.
The old tried and true method is to rub your finger across the base. You will feel a slight bump/hump if it's to high. Always visually check your reloads for "goof", missing, upside down or sideways primers plus proper seating depths and cracks.
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