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boomer656
Greenhorn Member


USA
45 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2018 :  10:18:34 AM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Yesterday I had my carbine out for only the second time. Even though I don't reload, I pick up my brass. I figure at some point I will either start reloading, or get the brass to somebody that does. At any rate, while I was sorting it from the other calibers I was shooting yesterday, I noticed that each has a dent in it about 1/2 way down the case (give or take 10 or 15%) - some barely visible, some fairly big. I did check the brass I collected after the first 'shoot' and it also has this mark. I'm assuming at this point that this occurs during the extraction process.

Is this normal or is there a problem to be addressed? Does it affect the usability of the brass for reloading?

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HB of CJ
Junior Member



USA
77 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2018 :  3:04:21 PM  Show Profile Send HB of CJ a Private Message  Reply with Quote
How does the Carbine function? How good is that 30 shot 50 yard initial test paper target? Does the carbine print well? Function well? Your dented brass might be occurring when the cases bounce off the slide after being ejected. Considered normal. Each Carbine seems to eject cases slightly differently.

The USGI Carbines were built using several different slide configurations. An attempt was made over time during the war to address the erratic ejection patterns. They enjoyed limited success. The fired brass will go everywhere. Sometimes off your face or down your shirt. This is considered normal and fun.

U-Tube has some slow motion Carbine firing videos. Also a couple of M2 Carbines. The normal ejection process and direction can best be described as erratic for a couple and somewhat determinable for about 100. They go all over. After the ejector spring sets this will calm down somewhat. Enjoy your Carbine.

Edited by - HB of CJ on 04/24/2018 3:37:13 PM
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Tuna
Moderator



3285 Posts

Posted - 04/24/2018 :  10:00:49 PM  Show Profile Send Tuna a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The dented cases are from the case hitting the top of the slide as it exits the carbine. Most of the ejection is controlled by the ejector in the bolt. There were three different styles and the type 3 is the best one to have. Make sure your ejector and spring are free to function properly and a light amount of lube may help it out. But the dents are not a big problem for reloading down the road.
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boomer656
Greenhorn Member



USA
45 Posts

Posted - 04/25/2018 :  10:51:48 AM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the responses.

The gun shoots fine - no problems noted other than my old eyes. It doesn't sound like the way the carbine is ejecting the shells is unheard of. I will take a closer look at the ejector and spring and make sure they're properly lubed.

Roy
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boomer656
Greenhorn Member



USA
45 Posts

Posted - 04/25/2018 :  12:22:58 PM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Tuna

... Most of the ejection is controlled by the ejector in the bolt. There were three different styles and the type 3 is the best one to have. Make sure your ejector and spring are free to function properly and a light amount of lube may help it out...


I took the bolt out to get a closer look at the extractor and get a bit of oil on it. Everything looks good from as far as can be told without taking it apart. Maybe I should get a bolt tool to take it apart and give it a good cleaning. It's either a type 2 or 3.
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jimb16
Moderator



USA
3143 Posts

Posted - 04/26/2018 :  6:33:08 PM  Show Profile Send jimb16 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Rather than taking the bolt apart, you might try giving it a good dose of brake cleaner, then re lubricating it with light oil.That often does the trick. But getting a bolt tool is a good idea anyway. Sooner or later, you are likely to need one.

OGCA Lifer,NRA Life member, son of a 325th GIR Glider Rider
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boomer656
Greenhorn Member



USA
45 Posts

Posted - 05/12/2018 :  07:29:18 AM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I've been thinking that getting one is a good idea. I know they're available on-line, but I'll probably wait until the next gun show I go to. Bill Ricca usually has a table at the shows in this area and I'd just as soon support him.
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jimb16
Moderator



USA
3143 Posts

Posted - 05/12/2018 :  8:15:50 PM  Show Profile Send jimb16 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Bill will definitely help you out. He's a good guy.

OGCA Lifer,NRA Life member, son of a 325th GIR Glider Rider
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boomer656
Greenhorn Member



USA
45 Posts

Posted - 05/13/2018 :  06:49:57 AM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
After posting this I checked his sight to see if he has any but did not find any listed. He confirmed that he doesn't have any, so I'll pick one up online.
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johniv
Starting Member



USA
23 Posts

Posted - 05/13/2018 :  4:06:56 PM  Show Profile Send johniv a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Got a bolt tool from Sarco some time ago. Works as advertised. Had a NPM with iffy ejection, took the bolt apart and cleaned it, function is back to normal at this time.
John
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boomer656
Greenhorn Member



USA
45 Posts

Posted - 05/24/2018 :  9:30:03 PM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
OK - a new (to me) problem. I had the carbine out at the range today, and when I got home the bolt tool I ordered from Sarco was waiting for me. When I was breaking the carbine down to clean and pull the bolt, I noted my gas piston nut was loose. It turns freely in both directions. I can turn it in pretty far before it goes finger tight - the openings/slots in the nut are at the cylinder wall at that point. I did take the nut all the way off and pulled the piston. It was cleaner inside than I expected - all looks good. I didn't see any signs on the threads in the cylinder that it had ever been staked.

Recommendations? Do I need to replace the nut, or just get a piston nut wrench and tighten this one. Threads on other forums were mixed as to whether it should be staked or not.

As an aside, I ordered a trigger spring removal tool when I got the bolt tool, figuring I would need that at some point. I guess I didn't do enough figuring :-)
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johniv
Starting Member



USA
23 Posts

Posted - 05/25/2018 :  2:15:47 PM  Show Profile Send johniv a Private Message  Reply with Quote
When I got my first M1, it had the habit of losing the piston nut. The threads in the bbl. were damaged. Fortunatly I worked in a machine shop. I made a plug to swage the threads roughly back into some kind of shape, Bought a new nut and piston, installed them and it must have been satisfactory as it has been 20 years and no further problems. I also staked the nut. FWIW
John
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boomer656
Greenhorn Member



USA
45 Posts

Posted - 05/25/2018 :  3:50:14 PM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by johniv

When I got my first M1, it had the habit of losing the piston nut. The threads in the bbl. were damaged. Fortunatly I worked in a machine shop. I made a plug to swage the threads roughly back into some kind of shape, Bought a new nut and piston, installed them and it must have been satisfactory as it has been 20 years and no further problems. I also staked the nut. FWIW
John


Thanks for the info. On this one, the threads on the nut and the barrel seem to be just fine. The nut threads on and off just fine - and it seats right where I would expect it to. Doesn't appear to ever have been staked.... and just loosened up on it's own. Of course, I don't know how long before I got the gun it was put on - might have been 20 years, or 2 weeks. Right now, I'm leaning toward tightening it up nice and snug, staking it and see how it goes. Just wish I know what constitutes snug. I'm more inclined to think it's in inch pounds not foot pounds.
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HB of CJ
Junior Member



USA
77 Posts

Posted - 05/25/2018 :  4:53:03 PM  Show Profile Send HB of CJ a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Finger tight for us means an adult male of average grip strength using the end of his trigger finger turning that neat cool piston nut wrench.

Turn until you have used all your finger strength keeping the finger level or on the same plane as your palm. Just snug otherwise.

If you want to you can detail strip your bolt and polish both sides of the extractor face. Just polish. Do not remove material.

Same thing with the bottom half of the bolt face rim. Again, just polish, do not remove material. Leave the actual face alone.

Same thing with both feed ramps on the receiver. Just polish up. Do not remove material. I use 600 grit cloth and a pencil end.

Lock tite and others make a high temp thread sealer that is removable. I do not know the type number. Enjoy all of this.

You can cure the boredom of lazy days by disassembling all your mags one by one and running 0000 steel wool through the mag body.

Also use the wool to polish or deburr the followers. Lube up heavy with LSA. Let dry. Be sure to install the springs correctly.

Be amazed how many mags have the springs in backwards. The rear follower should resist downward movement. Good luck. Have fun.
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Tuna
Moderator



3285 Posts

Posted - 05/26/2018 :  6:13:23 PM  Show Profile Send Tuna a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Once you have it as tight as you can with your fingers then use a center punch to stake the castle nut in place. This prevents the nut from coming off. Once you stake it then consider it to be permanently staked. You do not need to remove the nut again if the nut is not loose. It is a self cleaning gas system. People who take a wrench to the castle nut and tighten it up have a tendency to over tighten it. This can and has led to a cracking of the gas cylinder. If this happens your barrel is toast and must be replaced. Welding does not work on the gas cylinder. It just keeps breaking so do not over tighten the nut.

Edited by - Tuna on 05/26/2018 6:17:33 PM
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HB of CJ
Junior Member



USA
77 Posts

Posted - 05/27/2018 :  12:58:04 PM  Show Profile Send HB of CJ a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Excellent answers. Our Carbines get all their use with factory new ammo. All of it is FMJ or SP. One of the many things you can do with the platform is to experiment with cheap cast lead bullets.

Back in high school my spring tube Rockola had a problem with lead bullets. The barrel would shave lead at the gas port and quickly clog up. We were shooting wheel weight 115 gr RNL .310 diameter.

Probably could have used .309 with no issues. Anyhow, the solution to using lead hand loaded ammo was to remove that pesky piston nut. How many times I had to do this is forgotten. At least 5.

Then the quick cure was to hand spin a .070 diameter drill bit through the gas port into the barrel. Quick and fun to do. Lead particles came out. I did not stake. Just snug on the nut.

Today I do not shoot lead bullets. At least not yet. Once you know your gas port is completely clear and you have the late type nut, just snug it up and forget about it. Loct tite or staking.

If you choose to use a thread sealant, they make high temp stuff today that is designed to be owner removed. Not permanent. If you choose to stake the nut, once done it is done. You decision.
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boomer656
Greenhorn Member



USA
45 Posts

Posted - 05/30/2018 :  11:02:37 AM  Show Profile Send boomer656 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Received the wrench yesterday, along with a new nut and piston. I opted to install the new nut (both it and the original are 'late' style) and piston. I opted at this point to not use thread sealant, but did stake the nut. Of course, I was reluctant to give the punch as good a 'whack' as I would have liked, but hopefully enough to hold the nut in place. I'll find out after more range time. Thanks for your help.
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