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 Pull the trigger and nothing happens
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DeeCeeTee56
Starting Member


USA
5 Posts

Posted - 11/11/2017 :  11:57:35 PM  Show Profile Send DeeCeeTee56 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi. Newbie here. I reassembled the trigger group and the hammer does not rotate forward enough to push the sear back enough to allow the hammer to fall with out me helping hammer rotate. Help please.

David

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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
363 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  04:51:10 AM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Did it work B4 you disassembled it? Sounds like crud in the lock-work, weak springs, rubs or burrs somewhere or an assembly issue.
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Jackp
Veteran Member



USA
1061 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  08:20:36 AM  Show Profile Send Jackp a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hi David and welcome to the M1 Carbine Forum!

The only thing I can think of that might be out of place is that the trigger spring is not in the notch in the rear of the trigger. Everything else kinda has to be okay if you were able to insert the trigger and hammer pins...unless something is broken or bent.

JackP
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DeeCeeTee56
Starting Member



USA
5 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  10:38:55 AM  Show Profile Send DeeCeeTee56 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Yes when it was totally together it worked. However, when I got it down to trigger group it was difficult, as in I had to rotate the hammer forward to get the trigger to work. It was like it was stiff. So I put a new operating spring, trigger spring and small parts kit in, rebuilt the bolt and it is stiff. Some times it works and sometimes it does not. By the way on a different note, when it comes to installing the sear in the trigger if your sear has the hole in it and you happen to have an old lee enfield firing pin laying around it works perfectly as a tool to make that step tolerable. If you have several M1 Carbines or work on them it would really behoove you to try this as a tool. Thanks for all your insights and assistance, I really appreciate them.

David
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Tuna
Moderator



3285 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  1:14:54 PM  Show Profile Send Tuna a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Are you saying that the hammer spring is not installed or that it is installed?
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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
363 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  2:11:32 PM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I may be a bit confused here, but I am old enough to qualify for that.

The bolt dosen't have anything to do with what's going on within the trigger group, other than cocking the hammer on it's rearward travel. I assume you mean by operating spring...the hammer spring in this case? Are you saying that when the gun was assembled it worked? A shortened trigger-pin is the handiest tool to get the sear, sear-spring and trigger properly assembled as a group, inserted into the housing and the shortened pin pushed out by the stock trigger-pin on final assembly of the trigger components.
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DeeCeeTee56
Starting Member



USA
5 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  4:41:16 PM  Show Profile Send DeeCeeTee56 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Sorry for the confusion. I was just saying I had just replaced the operating spring and all the other spring parts in the bolt and trigger group. Everything was installed in the trigger group and if you cocked the hammer and tried to dry fire it, it would not release the hammer. Unless, you helped the hammer rotate towards the front of group. Then it would dry fire.
The lee enfield firing pin is just really handy to put the sear in the trigger assy. Strong, good mechanical advantage makes it a nice little tool.
Here's what I did to resolve the problem.
Used a 1000 grit stone and stoned the hammer (where it made contact with housing), stoned the underside of the sear that goes up and over the trigger sear 'bump', stoned the sides of the trigger where they rub against the housing, cleaned and polished all the pins. Put it together and still did the same thing. Cock hammer, try to pull trigger and nothing. Until you helped the hammer up a little. But it was better, because if you cocked the hammer with vigor it would reset to proper place and dry fire.
I took it all apart and compared the sear spring in the new kit with what I had taken out and what a difference. The new one was twice as beefy. Replaced it with the old one and it virtually flew back together. The sear was a 15 second evolution, and when I cocked the hammer and pulled the trigger it worked!!
Now I have a M1 carbine that has a very smooth trigger and hammer. Win-Win.
Thanks for all the help and advise. Please let me know if I can explain something I did not cover. this was about a 8 hour evolution and I am old, so anything is possible. Thanks again, can't wait to talk again.

David
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Jackp
Veteran Member



USA
1061 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  5:13:39 PM  Show Profile Send Jackp a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Where did you get the "twice as beefy" sear spring? You mentioned that it was in the "new kit". Who was the manufacturer? Another spring that might give you trouble is the recoil spring, if it's not USGI.

JackP
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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
363 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  5:20:01 PM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Great...nothing taste as good as success!

Question, and this is not a bash against any particular carbine, many of us have all kinds and I am in that camp. The only time I have encountered parts that had been or needed to be honed or polished due to rubs were in commercial carbines. Usually, a GI replacement part will fall-in, even on a commercial. Is the subject weapon a commercial or USGI?
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DeeCeeTee56
Starting Member



USA
5 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2017 :  10:32:03 PM  Show Profile Send DeeCeeTee56 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
A Winchester 5676xxx on the receiver, BLUE SKY/ARLINGTON VA rolled into barrel by muzzle and under that stamp is a real faint 2 line across the barrel by front sight that says General Motors on bottom line and SAGINAW S. G. DIV on top line (I think). So I think it has been through at least one armory, maybe more.

David
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shadycon
Veteran Member



USA
1379 Posts

Posted - 11/13/2017 :  07:46:09 AM  Show Profile Send shadycon a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The wrong springs will do it every time. A lot of the springs are similar in many guns so you have to know what goes where.
My rule of thumb is; don't force it, use a bigger hammer!

M1's-R-FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!
TSMG's-R-MORE-FUN!!!!!
ENJOY LIFE & HAVE FUN!!
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DeeCeeTee56
Starting Member



USA
5 Posts

Posted - 11/13/2017 :  10:17:02 AM  Show Profile Send DeeCeeTee56 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I cannot pinpoint where I got the parts from. I order from Liberty Tree, Sarco and shop on eBay and Amazon, so they could have come from anywhere really. I did not shop exclusively for USGI parts, that came later, as I learned the hard way. I stoned down the parts for two reasons, one was because I was trying to eliminate any potential problems and secondly just to get some experience that might be applicable when I start working on my moisin nagant. Any one have any ideas on why I have a Winchester receiver and a Saginaw barrel? I guess my rifle is a Heinz 57.

David
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Tuna
Moderator



3285 Posts

Posted - 11/16/2017 :  09:44:49 AM  Show Profile Send Tuna a Private Message  Reply with Quote
It is a Blue Sky imported back from Korea in the late 80's. They were rebuilt here before they went to Korea, then rebuilt no one knows how many times in Korea and finally returned and most likely rebuilt here again. But during one of the rebuilds is when the barrel was replaced. Your carbine is like 98% of all carbines in that they have all been rebuilt at one time or another.
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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
363 Posts

Posted - 11/16/2017 :  5:23:40 PM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I have a container with some hammers, triggers and sears that have all been "fitted" into the guns they came out of. All of them are unmarked cast steel components. I have never had to "fit" a GI part. I think it's best to obtain genuine GI, even used and post-war contracted parts have to be better than some of this junk on the market. Springs as well. I have a few extractor springs that are way out of spec. and were purchased new. They won't even compress into the recess.
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