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 General M1/M2 Carbine Discussion
 Type 2 Stock & Type 3 Barrel Band
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OH58D
Starting Member


12 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  09:41:15 AM  Show Profile Send OH58D a Private Message  Reply with Quote
This is my first post, so please forgive my ignorance. I am the proud owner of a Quality Hardware M1 Carbine in the 1,900,xxx range, probably from the Summer of 1943. It is in post-war configuration with an OI low wood Stock and an HI hand guard. It has the Type 3bayonet lug barrel band.

I purchased a nice Type 2 Quality Hardware marked High Wood stock and hand guard but discovered that the post war Type 3 Barrel Band with lug will not fit on the end of the Type 2 stock. The end of the stock seems too fat around. This was quite the surprise for a noob with the M1 Carbine.

Can I assume this is a known issue?

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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
325 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  10:00:19 AM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Every stock I own will fit on any carbine I own. There may be minor variations on how tight the BB closes on any particular stock, but I've never heard of a spec. BB not fitting a spec. stock....no matter what type it was.
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OH58D
Starting Member



12 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  10:08:05 AM  Show Profile Send OH58D a Private Message  Reply with Quote
In fact I tried taking an Underwood M1 Carbine with a Type 3 barrel band into this same Type 2 stock and had the same problem. You can't push the band far enough back to fit the spring tab into the slot. The top of the Type 3 band does go flush to the hand guard, but not far enough back to put the little tab on the spring into the slot. Hopefully you kind of visualize what I am describing?
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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
325 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  11:34:17 AM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
See if the band will engage the notch on the spring WITHOUT the hand guard installed. If it does, from what I can understand from what's posted, the hand guard may be a bit long. If it will not engage the slot no matter what, it would indicate the spring mounting hole was improperly positioned or the spring is short. Since you've tried two BB's...I doubt that is the problem.

Commercial guns are notorious for this ill-fitment and I have relieved the tab on the spring to bring it into engagement with the band-slot. The only other option is to start cutting-n-sanding.
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jimb16
Moderator



USA
3101 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  8:41:17 PM  Show Profile Send jimb16 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Remember, that stock was made for a type 1 band. If you insist on making the type 3 band fit, you will be harming the value of the stock.

OGCA Lifer,NRA Life member, son of a 325th GIR Glider Rider
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OH58D
Starting Member



12 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  9:05:45 PM  Show Profile Send OH58D a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Just for reference, this is a JMO marked Type 3 band on a Buffalo Arms 9/1943 barrel. Without the top hand guard, the barrel band installs fine, no rubbing and you don't have to force it on. I got some fine grit sandpaper and worked on the front of the hand guard. After about a half hour of fine sanding, working it back, I finally got a good fit where the band spring catch engages. Right now I've got a fine layer of boiled Linseed on the top hand guard, going to let it dry for several days.

I wanted to make use of this Q-RMC marked High Wood Stock with small Ordnance Cartouche on the right side. The upper hand guard is also marked Q-RMC. Butt plate and Recoil Plate are Quality Hardware, the Slide is a Type 5 Inland IP marked and the Round Bolt is Underwood. This is a Korean Blue Sky Marked import, but in great shape. Shoots well too. Going go back to a Type III or IV slide with a flat Quality Hardware bolt. Going to leave the current barrel band on it as well as the I.R.C.O. stamped rear sight.

Edited by - OH58D on 08/16/2017 9:06:55 PM
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cali201
Senior Member



USA
710 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2017 :  06:37:43 AM  Show Profile Send cali201 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Are you sure the stock you purchased is a GI and not a reproduction with added cartouche? And yes, leave the T3 barrel band and the T rear sight as it is a BLUE SKY there is no reason to try to make it look original and those updates make it a better shooter.
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americanboy
Advanced Member



USA
325 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2017 :  07:37:02 AM  Show Profile Send americanboy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Glad you were able to adjust the hand guard. Hand guards are not that expensive and if you have to grind something up, the hand guard is about the best place to do it. They were not making pocket-watches when they fitted these guns and there will be some give-n-take here-in-there, particularly since so many contractors were involved in manufacturing the furniture. Jimb mentioned the T1 band and I never considered that. A T1 may have slid right on, but it sounds like you got it worked out.

As opposed to cutting the wood, if the spring-tab is close to the band-notch, one can use a flat file to shave a couple thousandths off the flat side of the tab and make it snap into place. A little cold bluing and you can't tell. Springs are not that expensive either and I'm talking about adjusting a shooter or a commercial....NOT a collector grade.
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OH58D
Starting Member



12 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2017 :  09:10:13 AM  Show Profile Send OH58D a Private Message  Reply with Quote
The stock was purchased at J&G Sales in Prescott, AZ, and looked like hell. No cracks, no dents, no repairs just covered in layers of crud and what looked like dried cosmoline.

Got a correct Quality Butt Plate and Recoil plate on eBay as well. Stripped the wood on both stock and hand guard down to the bare wood and found the cartouche. It also has Q-RMC in the sling well. Keep in mind this is an oval cut oiler slot on a Quality stock with a small cartouche. Found the hand guard with the Q-RMC on eBay. The hand guard is 2 rivet. I was comparing the Q-RMC handguard with a 4 rivet Inland (HI) and found that the earlier guard was just a tad bit longer.

I did only the lightest of sanding back to make it fit. For the stock and hand guard, I am only using boiled Linseed Oil for the finish.

Edited by - OH58D on 08/17/2017 09:11:30 AM
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Tuna
Moderator



3230 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2017 :  8:08:55 PM  Show Profile Send Tuna a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Boiled linseed oil? Yuck....that tastes bad. Your carbine stock would be happy with raw linseed oil like it was originally made with. But something is better then nothing. Just don't use Tung oil on it.
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OH58D
Starting Member



12 Posts

Posted - 08/17/2017 :  10:51:58 PM  Show Profile Send OH58D a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I'm new to the M1 Carbine. Boiled Linseed oil seems pretty forgiving, and goes on nice. No experience with Raw Linseed Oil. I heard it was much slower at drying? I'm in New Mexico so our humidity here is low. The boiled Linseed so far has worked OK. Is the Raw Linseed more durable?
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Pappy
Advanced Member



317 Posts

Posted - 10/09/2017 :  12:18:02 PM  Show Profile Send Pappy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Tuna, just curious why not tung oil?

OGCA Life Member, NRA, GCA,
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Tuna
Moderator



3230 Posts

Posted - 10/09/2017 :  10:15:15 PM  Show Profile Send Tuna a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Tung oil becomes a sealer and any new oil that is needed for the stock will not get into the wood. The Tung oil would need to be removed from the wood. Plus it leaves a very shiny finish which is not what one would want on any rifle made for serious business. The original finish on USGI carbines was raw linseed oil. Stocks were dipped into warm oil in a tank and then allowed to drip dry. The raw linseed oil penetrates into the wood and protects it. The stocks on these old carbines are 70+ years old and saw hard use yet they still work. Might look like heck but then they can be cleaned up with a furniture stripper cleaner like Formby's and come back to life.
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